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Installation

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1. Check all fittings for propane leaks.   Pressure testing the propane system is the best method. 

2. Catalytic and ceramic heaters consume oxygen from the living area.   Read your instruction manual for the proper ventilation required.  Most RVs have some airflow around hot water heater, refrigerator and roof vents.

3. Keep objects away from the heater when in use, (even our dog will lay in front of it until she is near the point of combustion).  We call her the "heater hog-dog".

4. Remove dust build up and store in dust free area or cover the heater.

We always shut our heater off at night before going to sleep.

Installing the heater was fairly simple.  Initially, I added a tee and a flexible propane line onto the existing propane line for the furnace in the space under our oven.  Once we decided that the heater was sufficient, I removed the furnace and the tee.  We originally had two furnaces in our trailer and we left one in.  If we are in real cold weather with shore power we can turn on both heaters. 

We considered mounting the heater permanently on the wall.  Since we don't plan on being in cold climates too often we decided to buy the bolt-on legs and use it as a portable.  With the quick release fitting we can move it from storage to usage in a couple of minutes.  On two occasions in San Diego, we connected it outside of the trailer to provide added heat for outside dining on winter evenings.

RV shops can't (by law) install these heaters for you because they are not vented.  The shops can pressure test your propane system after you install the heater yourself.

You may also consider a ceramic heater or one with a thermostat control.  Some have an oxygen control to prevent low oxygen conditions but these can be troublesome in high altitudes. I have heard many opinions on what is the best heater, so ask around.